Food To Die For At The Phoenician

I first met fattoush during my trip to Cairo in 1999, and almost immediately fell in love with the chopped salad of romaine lettuce, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, parsley, mint and lemon juice -- tossed with toasted pita bits.

About five years ago, I wandered into the Grapeleaf Restaurant in the Village Shopping Center. The first words out of my mouth after opening the menu -- "You have fattoush!" The owner, a Lebanese woman named Laila, replied, "You know fattoush!?"

It was the beginning of a beautiful dining friendship.

When I went to Beirut in 2006, Laila provided me with some great travel advice. I ate plenty of fattoush while I was there.

Last year, Laila died in Texas from a brain tumor. The Grapeleaf had passed hands by then, but it just wasn't the same. It closed within months.

Last night, our friends Tom and Judy joined us for a dining trip to the Phoenician Restaurant on West Broad Street (between Malvern and Staples Mill). It is in the building that formerly housed La Casita Mexican restaurant, and the transformation is pretty amazing. Lanterns and hookas adorn the deep red stucco walls, and scarves drape from several ceiling lights; Middle Eastern music reverberates throughout the comfortable space.

We spent a few moments chatting with the owner, who said his business in a single night at the new restaurant equals a week with La Casita. (He also owns the La Casita on Brook Road near Azalea Avenue, which is usually very busy.)

It was then that I found out he was Laila's brother. He had planned to open a Lebanese restaurant years ago, but when his sister decided to open one he knew he wasn't going to compete against her. When she passed away, he said he was just unable to walk into the Grapeleaf, much less operate it.

A few months ago, he threw a dinner party at La Casita for one of Laila's customers -- and La Casita customers cleaned out the Lebanese fare. That's when he decided to open The Phoenician.

The food was amazing, and the portions were ample.

The four of us split a hummus appetizer and an eggplant appetizer, along with a bottle of Lebanese petit noir. Nikole and I went with appetizers for dinner -- I had fattoush and kebbe; Nikole had falafel and Lebanese green beans. Tom had the kofta kebab, and Judy chowed down on lamb. We were too full to even consider dessert.

Richmond has a new place to eat. It opened without much fanfare, but don't expect it to remain under the radar.

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Some local sites that have given attention to The Phoenician include: The Chowhound, A Beggarly Account of Empty Boxes and RVA Foodie.